Jacopo believes the true beauty of climbing lies in its potential for constant evolution. This dynamic climber has been adapting his skills and redefining his limits ever since he took his first vertical steps at the age of 10. Born in the South Tyrol, he started out in the world of indoor climbing and was instantly addicted by the sense of freedom it offered. He also enjoyed the honesty and fairness of the sport, quickly realising that the more energy he invested in climbing, the better he became.
Birthdate: October 13, 1989
Hometown: Bolzano, Italy
Homebase: Bludenz, Austria
Favourite Book: Narcissus and Goldmund, by Hermann Hesse
Favourite Music: Everything, depending on the moment. Electronic, old classics, hip hop, reggae.
Favourite Meal: A sandwich with avocado, fresh tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes and blue cheese. Or veggies with Tofu
Biggest Dream: To never get bored with what I do and to keep on challenging myself every single day. When I am old, I hope I will look back at my life without regretting a single thing I did.
What inspires you: People who are not scared of getting out of their comfort zone.
Favourite fitness session: TRX training followed by a long trail run (or a cross-country ski session in winter)
Words to live by: Change is the only constant.
I wouldn’t leave my house without my … The North Face Quince Pro Jacket!
The North Face: Common Ground
Movie: Common Ground, Siberia
Within two years the lure of competition beckoned and Jacopo was an instant hit, placing second in his first competition, a stage of the Youth Italian Cup. He went on to win the Italian Youth Championship and Youth Italian Cup in both the lead and boulder disciplines for three years in a row, before traveling the world as a member of the Italian national team. A competition highlight was winning the Italian Boulder Championship in 2010.
Never happy to narrow his horizons, Jacopo kept sampling new forms of climbing, leaping from traditional to multi-pitch to ice-climbing as his thirst for new experiences grew. It wasn’t easy to step away from the arena of sport and competition climbing in which he felt totally comfortable, but he loved reigniting the sensation of being a beginner and embracing the opportunity to test his mental strength in more challenging environments. Blending with his love of travel, exploration and photography, multi-pitch and traditional climbing quickly became his new passions.
Having enjoyed memorable trips to La Reunion and Siberia in recent years, Jacopo’s confidence is summit-high and he is determined to spend the next few years traveling the world for traditional and multi-pitch adventures. He feels ready to establish new routes on unclimbed faces and to tackle spectacular big wall expeditions. His philosophy is to ‘do what you love, love what you do.’ For Jacopo, that means he will never be afraid to make a change to find the freshness and flexibility he craves. While some athletes are content to stay in their comfort zone, Jacopo will always be chasing something new.
- Many routes up to Fr. 9a all around the world
- Several flashes and on-sights up to Fr. 8b+
- Several boulders up to Fb. 8b/+ and 8a flash
- First Greenpoint Ascent of Lapoterapia, Osso (Italy), 8c (2015)
- Prinzip Hoffnung, Buerser Platte, Austria E9/E10, 8b/+(2014)
- Psychogramm, Buerser Platte, Austria, 8b+ (2015)
- Several routes up to 8a+
- Up to 8b+ red point
- Up to 8a+ on traditional gear on-sight
- First ascent of Zembrocal (8c+, 7 pitches, Reunion Island) together with Caroline Ciavaldini, Sam Elias, Yuji Hirayama, James Pearson. (2013)
- First ascents of “The Red Corner”, “From Zero to Hero”, “Sketchy Django” and “Wake up in Siberia” (up to 7c+, Siberia) together with Hansjoerg Auer and Siebe Vanhee. (2015)
- Italian Bouldering Champion 2010
- World Cup Semi Finalist
- Youth Italian Champion (Lead and Boulder) for 3 years
- Winner Italian Youth Cup (Boulder and Lead) for 3 years